Key West The Newspaper - March 15, 2002

Cafe Europa

by Rosemary & Basil Sage

Appetite Essential. Passport Optional. Restaurant. Cafe. Bakery. Caterer. Seven days a week, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Free parking too! Charming. Inviting. Intimate. Casual. Continental. Convenient. Great Value. Cafe Europa is a jewel in the crown of Key West dining.

Under the watchful eyes of Chefs Andre Welmer and Sven Ramsauer you feel as if you have stopped by a friend's for a home cooked meal. Either in the courtyard or the inside area, sounds of different languages, aromas surround you and desserts entice you.

It is a familiar story. Andre and Sven came on vacation and changed their lives to be here in Paradise. Cafe Europa is one of the Duval Square collection. Vegetarian, carnivore and sweet tooth guests will be saying Gracias, Merci, Danka , Bene!

APPETIZERS: 5 plus daily soups from $6.75 to $8.25. Decisions will not be easy. Just be forewarned everything sounds and is appealing. Smoked salmon with a Dijon mustard dip; brie and tropical fruits; scampi gratin, sauteed mushrooms tempt the palate.

The intrigue of Flamkuche won this heart and is it wonderful! Crispy thin dough topped with Swiss cheese, crumbled bacon and sauteed sweet onions is outstanding.

SALADS: 3 priced from $4.95 to $5.75 Classics include house salad, spinach salad and Caesar. Each is fresh, crisp and with equally classic dressing. The inclination is to skip salad but we didn't. The spinach salad with hot raspberry dressing is excellent.

ENTREES: 24 exceptional offerings are arranged by country. Spanish. French. German. Italian and house selections make decisions a daunting task. Sharing is the only way to go.

From Spain: 4 items from $13.90 to $18.50 Pinehitos Morunos is from the Andalucia region. Pork tenderloin is marinated in garlic, paprika and curry; then grilled and served over rice.

Pollo al Padre Pedro from Estremadura is sliced chicken with peppers, onions and fresh tomatoes.

Paella Valenciana, created over 200 years ago in Alicante, is as beautiful in presentation as in taste. Combining a selection of seafood's served in a rich broth perfect for warming the soul.

Patoala Sevillna has its roots in Seville. Roasted duck is flavored with olives and oranges and served with a twice baked potato.

From France: 4 items from $13.75 to $19.90 As with all things French, the sauce is the signature.

Filet de Beouf Duchesse is a fine filet glazed with jus, accompanied by potatoes of the same name.

Blanquette de Veau is chopped veal and vegetables in a cream herb Veloute sauce. Ratatouille is the vegetarian's delight and is topped with melted cheese and served over rice. Tournedos aux Champignons a Lestragon gives new meaning to "steak and potatoes." Medallions are fried in butter and garlic then glazed with mushrooms a la creme and served with tarragon duchess potatoes.

From Germany: 5 items from 414.50 to $16.75 The spaetzle are so amazing. Not since my Gramma'sSunday dinner have I tasted this dish. Sauerbraten is a have to taste with the robust flavors from marinating with spices. Cooked very slowly with vegetables and then braised with red cabbage. Served with spaetzle*.

Pork Stroganoff uses tenderloin sliced and roasted in a mushroom onion cream sauce and served with spatial.

Wiener Schnitzel is veal dipped in flour, egg and bread crumbs prepared in clarified butter. This is served with double baked potato and red cabbage.

Jaeger Schnitzel is a variation on Wiener Schnitzel; just not breaded. Served with the spaetzle this dish is lighter.

Black Forest Chicken combines sauteed chicken breast with black forest ham, fresh mushrooms, herbs and a white wine cream sauce and is served with the wonderful spaetzle.

From Italy: 5 true classics from $9.50 to $14.50. The selection reflects the good judgment of the chefs and needs no description other than the name of the dish. All pastas are served on fresh spinach leaves with generous parmesan and sauces. Your choices:Fetuccini Alfredo. Pasta Seafood. Pasta with Bacon and Onion in a spicy red sauce. Salmon Pasta. Pasta Veggie.

AND 10 ADDITIONAL ITEMS: 7 items from the light fare and 3 fish entrees

Mind boggling the range of entrees from a small kitchen and the integrity and quality of each dish is exceptional. Salmon with shrimp-spinach strudel, Sesame crusted Mahi Mahi, or Shrimp Tuscany vie for your attention.

DESSERTS: Don't even ask. YES, you want dessert . . . several. Selections vary. Basil and I shared a sampling of six. A dessert sampler will be a sure winner on this menu. Hint, Hint. We tried everything from Creme Brulee, cheese cake, fruit torte,mousse and classic German cake.

BEVERAGES & LIBATIONS: A discreet but lovely selection of international and domestic beers and pleasant wines by the glass or bottle are well priced.

Cafe Europa a restaurant for the traveler or the discriminating palate. There is much to be explored and even more to be tasted. Located off upper Duval in Duval Square. Free parking off Simonton.